Pankina (which means "Be Happy" in Australian Aboriginal), is a 45 foot steel hulled boat built by David Piper and professionally fitted out in 1989. She looks remarkably fit for her age and caters for my needs remarkably well. The intention is to cruise the waterways at will, no definitive plans, no schedule. With luck it will carry me through some of the best of the scenery around the UK, viewed from the unique perspective at the helm of a Narrow Boat. This blog is to record the experience, to share the adventure and hopefully to give an insight into life on the canals.

Thursday, 25 June 2015

Pennine passage


I must say the Leeds Liverpool Canal boasts one of the longest lasting vistas of beauty I’ve encountered on the inland waters. Yes, I’ve crossed the Pennines before, but that was on the Rochdale Canal. The filth and apparent squalor encountered on that route far overshadowed any patches of marvel. The Llangollen really is lovely, through it’s entire length really, but it just isn’t nearly as long. Far-reaching views across dell and dale accompany you the majority of the time. Grotty industrial parks, both past and present, just didn’t seem to feature to any great extent. Rolling hills enlivened by gambolling lambs were my constant companions. Ancient, wide limbed trees spread their arthritic branches to catch the glorious sunshine. Dotted around vast green lands, their gnarled torsos protected by wooden fencing, it resembled estate parklands rather than farmland. And the weather did a fine job perfecting the whole scene, no wonder so many boaters were crawling out the woodwork. Though the majority seemed to be hire boats, especially between Leeds and Gargrave, which about defined the practical limits of half a week’s travel from the hire bases. (Photo: One of the many swing bridges between Leeds and Gargrave - Leeds Liverpool Canal)


Waterfowl were particularly plentiful, and as I progressed I witnessed everything from moorhens to swans nesting, and in due time the, oh so cute, youngsters of all the different birds. Up to twelve ducklings hatched, the numbers had to be high because ducks are not the world’s best mothers. Or is it that ducklings are rather stupid? Ducks will attempt to lead perspective predators away from their young, but ducklings tend to get flustered, spread out, get lost and become easy targets anyway. Moorhens have less chicks, and they keep them better hidden. The tiny black chicks I generally saw hiding amongst the reeds and vegetation near the bank, close on mother’s tail. Goslings and cygnets have the advantage of being cared for by two parents, mating pairs of geese and swans stay together and take a more active role in protecting their offspring. One male swan actually attacked my side fenders as I cruised past, completely unperturbed by the size of the boat or noise of my engine. I half expected him to target me as I drew alongside his mate while she sat on the nest. (Photo: A lovely village stop off - Riddlesden, North Yorks)


I assume it was the male who patrolled the immediate area, and the female who sat on the nest incubating her eggs. The males would take nesting material to her while she sat there gradually expanding the large mound of reeds she nested on. Geese didn’t nest on the water at all, they chose open space away from the bank, generally on flat ground. Their nests were nowhere near as prominent as swans. In fact they seemed to put very little effort into nest building, relying on seeing approaching threats and their own plucky nature for defence. Due to the continued effort in raising their young there’s no need to invest so heavily initially, therefore clutch numbers are lower compared to ducks. Five or six seems about average for them both, but where swans keep to the water with their newborn, geese spend more of their time on dry land. I must be honest I don’t actually think of geese as water birds, they mainly graze on grass. Swans do graze a fair amount on grass but their diet includes a lot from within the water. It’s funny watching swans take off, so much noise and effort to get airborne. Some use both feet together trying to launch their bulk skywards, like bunny hops, others alternate, so it’s more like running on the surface of the water. (Photo: More of the same - Riddlesden, North Yorks)


Spring really is a magical time to be amongst nature, new life abounds. I couldn’t help but feel infused by the miracle of new life. First the plant life, with dense displays of snowdrops, followed by various delicate bulbs, never in more than a small cluster, half hidden by tufty grass on the canal bank. And then, my favourite, wooded slopes inundated with carpets of bluebells, a riot of blue cascading down through the shade of the trees. Though maybe not as visually overpowering the delicate waft from thick stands of wild garlic flowering is a delight all of it’s own. May blossom fills the hedgerows earliest, quickly followed by elder flowers, while at the verge between path and shrubs meadowsweet blooms like creamy candyfloss. It seems forever since I encountered spring in it’s full glory, I guess that’s what you get for spending most of the year abroad. Even when I’ve been home I’ve not been exploring the countryside anywhere near as much as when I had a dog to walk. (Photo: In the middle of nowhere, North Yorks)


I do miss the company of a faithful friend, a constant companion. It isn’t that I feel dreadfully lonely, just that dogs are such wonderful additions to your life. Unfortunately they haven’t fitted into my lifestyle for years now, otherwise I’d have succumbed long ago. In many ways I long to commit to a more settled life, yet I’m still unsure whether or not the time is right. There is still so much of the world I’d like to experience, so many places I’ve yet to visit. The wanderlust has yet to leave me, despite pangs to enjoy my own home, the easy company of good friends. Asked, as I often am, whether I get lonely at times, the answer is simple. For sure! But we can’t rely on the presence of others to heighten the enjoyment of life. If you can find it within yourself to feel content, then company of any type is a wonderful bonus. If you can’t be happy in your own company, then you’re reliant on others, which I feel is too much responsibility to put on your friends. I’m lucky, I have many wonderful friends, whose presence and support I truly value. However, I’d hate to think my happiness was dependant on them. (Photo: Lock side setting - Gargrave, North Yorks)


OK, I’m about to get a touch morose. There is nothing worse than finding out about the death of someone who matters in your life. It may be many years since you saw them, but the loss is still of great sadness. In the last few weeks this has hit me hard. First a valued friend in Scotland died of cancer, I was shocked because I knew nothing in advance, despite recently renewing our acquaintance. But the news was nothing compared to travelling up for the funeral. I haven’t been to Scotland since Cai died, it held many memories, so much so it knocked me off kilter completely. It was like a time warp, transporting me back, having to deal with my previous loss, while compounded with a host of others. Paddy (Pandora) had been the linchpin of my live in Perthshire, her son Robin Cai’s closest boyhood friend. Yet I couldn’t even recognise him or the other kids in Paddy’s family. Hey, they’re hardly kids, being well into their twenties. Christ my heart went out to them, but I couldn’t distinguish between current grief and the all-pervading grief from losing my own son. And meeting friends in that area for the first time in nine years did nothing but exacerbate the situation. (Photo: Peace and tranquillity amid the North Yorks moors)


Realising a number of friends had passed away in the interim was a shock. How could I expect it not to? It was like four friends dying in rapid succession, even though it had been over a number of years. It’s crushing to hear of youngsters suffering accidental death, but more common in recent years has been the occurrence of middle-aged friends and family dying from supposedly natural causes. Cancer, brain tumour and heart attacks abound. Whatever happened to the advent of longer life? Why are so many of us dropping before our time? I thought life expectancy was increasing, so what’s going on. I know my generation has been a pretty hedonistic one, but it’s also been one of improved lifestyle, diet and attitude. For me it’s raised many questions, what the hell is going on? At this rate our parents are going to outlive most of us. I know death is the ultimate consequence of life, I know I should have hardened myself to this ultimate truth. Truth is, I can’t! Each and every one is like another strand of life’s web severed, and every time I’m left further adrift. Hence trying to negate my reliance on the lovely people who’ve filled my life. (Photo: Sunset close to midnight - North Yorks Moors)



Let’s face it, no matter how pre-ordained death is the grand finale of life, it still hurts for the survivors, especially in the western world. As a huge generalisation we carry the pain of loss further than much of the world. In my mind this is largely because we are not as adept at openly grieving. Is it not a luxury to grieve ad infinitum? For most of the population of this planet the daily demands of life outweigh the loss of a loved one. A brief caterwauling of grief, even a contracted display of pain and loss, and then the basics of survival take over. There are still mouths to be fed, crops to be harvested, bills to be paid. How lucky we are to be able to lose ourselves in grief. And it is a privilege we should appreciate. Like myself, many westerners lose track of time, life and meaning with the loss of a loved one. I don’t criticise this, but do see it as a luxury, one that I wish was available to everyone throughout our world. Just because you are poverty stricken and lose a child, mother or father, doesn’t mean it hurts any the less, but circumstances dictate you get on with life. When I rode through the Sierra Madres in Mexico, just after losing Cai, I came across a funeral cortege and desperately wanted to join it. In my mind it was to show respect, initially. I quickly became aware it was purely as a release for my still pent up grief. And I hate to admit, but each and every death I experience brings me back to Cai, a death I will never overcome. (Photo: 1640 yards of tunnel - Foulridge, N. Yorks)


But enough of that! The pain will not go away, though it need not rule my life. I owe it to myself, and those still alive, to make the most of what is left. I only wish to maintain my son as a very important part of my life, one I do not wish to forget, or ignore. How wonderful it would be if mutual friends would venture forth with memories of the good times, rather than sink into awkward silence when I mention his name. Hey guys, I know so much time has gone by, but loss is loss, he hasn’t done a JC and resurrected. My memories are all I have left, so don’t shun or feel awkward at the memory of Cai, join in with my jubilation at a son I treasured so deeply. And on that note I must mention the crematorium services of recent deaths. Sorry folks, but I can’t bring myself to attend. The formality of the occasion is dreadful. I know there is some positive aspect to a good turn out, but the formality of situation is heart-breaking. To stand and accept hand after hand, platitude after platitude, I find it awful for the family. I can’t bring myself to be yet another well-wisher, another nail in the coffin. (Photo: In the middle of nowhere, North Yorks)


And so I bring us back to the canal system, my life of escapism, my chance to chill out and not kowtow to the daily grind of our modern society. Not that it’s all easy going, a life of luxury and no stress. Bearing in mind most stress is self-imposed, we are our own worst enemies, but also our own salvation. While moored at Wigan, at 5.30 am, I heard a scraping on the roof of my boat. A quick moment on wakening, before I realise someone was up to no good, and I darted to the mid-hatches. Only to find a slaphead chav, 100 metres and increasing, frantically pedalling my bicycle down the towpath. My first though was oh well, quickly followed by angst at being robbed. Acceptance wasn’t far behind, maybe he needed a bike, maybe he was late for work. But his screech of, “fu*k you c*nt,” as he furiously pedalled really infuriated me. What a complete and utter tosser, if only I’d had my air gun loaded and ready. No I don’t agree with instigating violence upon others, but I’d have happily shot him with whatever weapon I had at hand. It wasn’t the loss of property it was the contempt that he poured upon me. (Photo: View down the Manchester Ship Canal )


By and large life on the canal is filled with friendly interchanges, which is exceptional. But you mustn’t allow it to drop your guard, you’re never far from humanity, and humanity is far from perfect. Leave your tiller pin outside over night and it may well get stolen, as might your boat hook, or punting pole. You’re never far from the ne’er do wells. I might accept such reprobates are around, but I desist from allowing them to rule my way of thought. I guess I believe in karma, and refuse to let the scum of our world dictate my terms of living, By doing so I leave myself open to abuse, not often to my face, it’s always the underhand scumbags who benefit. However much I try and ignore their influence, I can’t. Chasing off stone throwing kids with an air rifle, or facing up to gnarly youths on the towpath, I’m game. I believe in live and let live, but if that fails, an eye for an eye is good enough for me. (Photo: There be angels where you least expect 'em - On the hidden waterways of our glorious land, hehe!)

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