Pankina (which means "Be Happy" in Australian Aboriginal), is a 45 foot steel hulled boat built by David Piper and professionally fitted out in 1989. She looks remarkably fit for her age and caters for my needs remarkably well. The intention is to cruise the waterways at will, no definitive plans, no schedule. With luck it will carry me through some of the best of the scenery around the UK, viewed from the unique perspective at the helm of a Narrow Boat. This blog is to record the experience, to share the adventure and hopefully to give an insight into life on the canals.

Thursday, 30 October 2014

Into the bowels of the earth

 I’m glad to report my engine seems to be chugging happily along, just about how it should be. I had one minor moment when the temperature peaked higher than it’s regular 85OC. I bled out the little spit of air left in the cooling system, and, just like magic, it would appear the problem has vanished. Of course I’ve made efforts to understand it’s temptation to take a little air back into the system. My theory is that the volume of the expansion tank is too small. With coolant topped to it’s lowest level at cold, at normal operating temperature, the amount of expansion files the entire expansion chamber, venting off any excess coolant. Once cooled completely, the level of coolant is below the expansion tank, therefore at least some air has sunk back down into the topmost part of the system. Topping it up carefully on a morning seems to ensure there are no problems, it’ll run for many hours, without stop, at a steady temperature. There is a bit of a diesel smell in the engine bay, which I believe is stronger than previously noticed, but you can kid yourself of anything when expecting the worst. And it hasn’t worn off yet, my guard is still up, picking up on the slightest noise, smell or sign of anything untoward. (Photo: A pretty looking coot)

 It’s been some time since having visitors, so having company for the weekend was a welcome distraction. A family of four and two dogs was reduced to a lone male, so it was just two guys having a little adventure for the weekend. That adventure being the Harecastle Tunnel, 2,675 metres of very confined space in almost black out conditions. I do have a small light on the prow to navigate through tunnels, and I have to be honest, it’s virtually useless. Being fair I would not liked to have tried without the faint ray of hope it provided. In height it gets as low as 6” 2’ (just under two metres), which may not sound really small, but it is a canal boat you have to squeeze through, not a mini cooper. I wanted to make it through without having to remove the roof boxes, so there was a question as to whether I could fit through. Not wanting to face the job of emptying them, complete dismantling and then fitting everything inside, I actually considered turning round and retracing my route round Nantwich and Middlewich to get north of Stoke. With such madness floating round my confused little brain a handy ally would be invaluable, as long as Steph didn’t know the possibilities that lay ahead, I wouldn’t want to scare him off. (Photo: Working pottery, along with the tourist side)

 Neither of us could have imagined what lay ahead for the weekend, but at least dismantling roof boxes and cramming my boat full didn’t turn out to be on the agenda. I’d pretty much been kicking my heels on the approach to Stoke on Trent, wasting days in the vain hope of being reissued with a valid bankcard. Why leaving my wallet in a shop meant my current card was permanently cancelled is beyond me. In effect, if anyone phones up your bank and reports your card lost it is immediately cancelled. Being reissued a new card is the only solution, easier said than done living on the cut. Taking up to five days to reach any given branch means a little forward planning is involved, especially as I had to live off the cash in my pocket. Ambling from Stone to Trentham I was poised to cruise straight through the heart of Stoke to meet Steph at the upper fringes of the city. If ever things need to run smoothly there’s a good chance they won’t. Three nights hovering around Trentham and my card failed to reach me, finally I left on the Friday, empty-handed. I expected to pass heavily populated areas of Stoke, run down and seedy. Admittedly, there were a few such areas, but few and far between. The main sign of human activity were scores of overpasses, heavy traffic, a busy and noisy environment. It never really reached the canal side.

 Stoke is actually an amalgamation of metropolis’, all having built up to the point of making one huge megalopolis. The individual town centres lay to one side or the other of the canal, which snakes around the outer boundaries between them. The clean-cut lines of modern suburbia line one bank. Willows run rampant in undersized gardens, boardwalks edge the waters, displaying a variety of outdoor features, enough to make any home and garden mega-store proud. Closer in are the crumbling redbrick council properties, also backing directly onto the canal. I can’t claim to understand the concrete sheep and goats on display, suffice to say the run down terraced housing wasn’t as well presented. The disparity was quite startling, it shouldn’t be, I’m used to wandering the margins between those that have and those that have not. Chugging peacefully along, alone, allows time to notice the world about. It’s peaceful on the canal, even in a lot of the inner city areas. Though never busy the footpaths are well-used, constant dog walkers, more than the occasional jogger, and a steady stream of cyclists. It’s like a leafy lane winding between old and stained buildings. Penetrating deeper into the metropolis the housing more or less stopped, large industrial complexes filled much of the space in what appears to be recycled wasteland. Huge areas lay empty, ringed by busy trunk roads and intersections.

 Bottleneck kilns dot the skyline, disused commercial properties became the norm. Decaying brickwork and filthy broken windows form a blot on the landscape, it fills my view for long minutes at a time. The towpath and tunnels  become vamped up to provide convenient underpasses. To this joskin it was mayhem, but I cruised through sedately, in my own little world. There are also a number of locks to climb through as you head north from the central Stoke area. Which is a bit weird. Coming up in the lock I entered under a bridge, at a main junction of the road above. Then, after sorting out the paddles, I bring my boat from beneath the traffic, up to the same height. It was like a clash of worlds, a bit like meeting a Mongolian camel herder on my modern BMW, but the other way round, if you get my drift. In this case though, as soon as you putter out the lock you’re back in your own world, a languid, leafy lane.

Not for everyone though! Leaving a lock open for the family approaching I backed round a corner to top up with water. I assumed they had some clue as to what they were doing, the daughter had already watched a couple of boats go through. Ten minutes later I walked back round the corner, to find their boat stuck hallway down the lock and the lower canal system flooding over all the locks. The husband was at the helm, shouting instructions and abuse at wife and kids, who were desperately trying to figure out what the hell to do. Coming into the lock they’d thought they had to do something to the gate once they entered, so they’d opened the paddles I’d rightly closed before leaving. Then by opening the bottom paddles too they’d caused a free flow from that lock down. I shouldn’t be too harsh with the guy, he wasn’t being too obnoxious, I think I’d being losing it a bit stuck down in the boat totally out of controlling the situation. I jumped to their aid and set all the paddles how they should be, then explained to wife and kids how to do a lock. Due to the flooding caused they got stuck for longer, the water lower down had to be drained off before they could continue. That was their first lock, so I must admit they did quite well handling the boat into the lock. How can you go into the family politics of the situation? There’s plenty of argy bargy on the cut, partners cussing each other in difficult circumstances. And so many guys get their wives to set the locks, while they lounge at the tiller.

Normally, when faced with having guests, the big bonus is having someone to crew for you. Apart from the tunnel itself the only obstacle was one measly lock, so Stef was due lots of excitement and very little work. Not only did we have a virtually clear way ahead, but the roof boxes passed the height restriction at Harecastle Tunnel. Approaching it, it seemed so innocuous. A fair sized portal and a small docking area hove into view as we rounded the last bend, there was no other punters about so we pretty much went straight through. I had to take my chimney down and put the bicycle indoors, then we were caste into an enormous black hole. At nearly three kilometers long I hadn’t expected to have sight of the far end, but right from the beginning there was the faintest little speck of light at the end of the tunnel. I lost sight of it often, and grazed the sides of my roof boxes. The damage was slight, battle scars so to speak, and the trip through was awesome. It kept getting smaller, then smaller still. Initially we thought it was spacious, and it was compared with what was to come. At its narrowest I could only just raise my head above the level of the hatchway, I couldn’t see to steer, I merely let the sides of the tunnel lead me through, with an occasional slight bump. It was really awesome, it only took forty minutes and was worth every minute. So much so that I’m now heading up towards Standedge Tunnel, nearly six kilometers long. Once more, will I fit through without having to dismantle the roof boxes?